Lumbini to the Indian Border

Up at 5:30 AM for another early bus.
-Bus to Bheirawa (1 hr)
-Bus to Butwal (1 hr)
-Bus to Narayan Garh (3 hr). 5 hr wait...internet and traveler's sicknes.
-Bus to Kakarvitta (18.5 hr), stopping about 8 times during the night.

Lumbini, Nepal

-Rented bike. Rode into Secret Garden. Saw the Asokan Pillar (249 BC), which is next to the Maya Devi Temple, the exact spot where Buddha (Siddhartha Guatam0) was born. Inside the temple are the remains of the original temple (2,300 years old). There is a Nativity Sculpture, which is 1,600 years old.
-Visited many temples and monasteries within the Secret Garden- Nepali, Chinese, German, Vietnam, Indian, Thai, Myanmar, and Sri Lanka. Rode back to the Guatam Buddha Lodge in the village (Padariya Bazar).
-Dal Baht w/some Indians on the roof top. A guy who spoke no English said I was a "good man" though an interpreter.

Kathmandu to Lumbini

-Up at 5:30 to get bus to Lumbini. Bus stopped several times. Arrived in Bheirawa in the afternoon.
-A madman climbed on top of the bus with the luggage on the bus from Bheirawa to Lumbini. He rode up top for about 1 hour, dodging tree branches. That man was me!
-After checking into a small guesthouse, took a walk in the Secret Garden and then around the village.
-Dinner on the roof after a nice sunset, with Czechs, Indians, and French.

Kathmandu

-Breakfast at Buddhist Meditation Center - tofu scramble, potatoes, toast, and milk tea!
-Met up with Shamsher from the orphanage. He showed me many places, starting with the temples and courtyards of Patan Durbar Sq. Then we walked to Mahabuddha Temple, with thousands of small Buddha carvings. Next was Pashupati Temple, where there were many weddings. This is also the place where most people in the Kathmandu are cremated. We saw 4 cremations by the river in progress. We also saw some spotted deer nearby.

-We stopped by his cousins house, and went to Bodhnath Stupa, which is massive and surrounded by Tibetan shops.

-Met up with the Everest Trek crew and went to OR2K for dinner - amazing sizzling veggie patty.

After dinner, we went to the Reggae Bar fro some live music and watched wasted people trying to outdance each other. Stopped at the late-nite bakery for a chocolate rum ball.

Kathmandu

-Met w/Raju and went to the grocery place to buy food for the SOF Orphanage w/the $560 I raised from my sponsors. We purchased thousands of pounds of food and supplies! Delivered food to orphanage. Made signs w/amounts of the food items, and took photos with the kids around and on the food piles.

-While waiting for a falafel piat, met a random Nepali lady who works for US Aid. We went to a jazz bar, but they kicked us out, since we had our falafel pitas. Ended up at some upscale place, and had some Gorka Beer. I went to pick up my laundry, but the place was closed. So, went to the internet to upload Everest pics. I ran into Jasmine from the Everest trek there.

Lukla to Kathmandu

-Stopped at the bakery to get some apple crumble on way to airport (by foot). At 6 am, all the airport counters were still closed. As it was cloudy, no planes were flying in. Waited w/Jasmine, Val, Chris, Adrian, Irene, Sanders, and Nancy. After a helicopter left + returned, everyone got boarding passes. Luckily I got Yeti Flight #2.
-Lakpa walked passed security into the waiting area/gate area. He spoke to us for a moment, until the military kicked him out (or, pushed him out).
-We were rushed onto the tarmac when the 2nd Yeti flight arrived. As the passengers got off, we were rushed into the plane. It promptly took off down the short runway as soon as the door closed. Talked to Nancy (Malaysia) on the flight.
-Arrived in Kathmandu (1400m). Went to Indian Embassy to wait for hours in a disorganized line.
-Back to embassy to pick up my passport and visa. Missed out on meeting my friends from the trek, because it took so long.
-Pilgrims Restaurant and Book Store for some pakoras and Tibetan Noodle Soup, which you could eat with a fork.
-Checked email and went to bed.

Phakding to Lukla

-Tibetan bread + lemon tea. Said good-bye to the 2 women who work there. Hiked up to Lukla (2840m).
-Checked into Sunny Garden Lodge. Went to the Thursday Market. Tried some chang (homemade beer), and met Lakpa's sister.
-Back to Sunny Garden Lodge for some momos. Jasmine, Irene, Sanders, and Valerie (whose flight got cancelled) showed up.
-Went to Lukla Monastery. There was a painting class there, making Thangka paintings. We went to a restaurant where some monks, including Lakpa's brother, were making small dough statues for some sort of New Years prayer celebration.
-Said bye to Lakpa as he headed back to his town of Surke.
-Took shower, as 1st hotel room w/shower in 2 weeks. Went to Yeti Airline office to check flight status. Stopped by bakery for chocolate cake.
-Checked email - Peace Corps asking for another form.
-Dal baht for dinner. Talked with the ladies about tooth stories.

Namche to Phakding

-Deep-fried Tibetan bread for breakfast w/Peter + Noelle.
-Hiked past Namche Monastery. Had good views of the sacred Khumbi Yul Lha (5761m) and Papchermo. Hiked to Thamo (34493m), past Mani Walls, many rhododendrons, and the Bhote River.
-Went into the Khari Thamo Monastery (nunnery), which was moved from Tibet after the 1959 Chinese crackdown. Had some popcorn. The "anni" gave me holy water for my head. We got to see the construction + painting in progress at the new prayer hall. Then we had Tibetan tea (w/salt).
-Hiked back down to Namche and saw 3 massive eagles along the way. Spring rolls w/salad and french fries for lunch @ Namche Hotel.
-Hiked all the way down to the river from Namche. Listened to the soundtracks from "Into The Wild" and "O Brother Where Art Thou?" while hiking along the Dudh Koshi. Cut my toe on a rock just before getting to the river (due to wearing Chaco sandals).
-Arrived in Phakding (2610m), after "checking out" of Sagarmatha National Park. Stayed at International Trekker's tea house, for 2nd time. Had a glass of Rakshe + some popcorn to celebrate making it back down w/Lakpa.
-Good Dal Baht for dinner. Listened to iPod on speakers before bed.

Tengboche to Namche Bazar

-Woke up to bells from monastery. After toast + jam, headed out on the trail.
-Weather started to get much warmer. There were trees all around for the 1st time in a long time. There were many beautiful rhododendrons (red, pink, + white), and even some purple orchids. At Phunki Tenga (3250m), we saw a bridge that collapsed when a massive boulder had fallen to the Dudeh Koshi River.
-Walked by a water-driven prayer wheel. Stopped at a Buddhist stupa dedicated to Tenzing Norgay, shortly after getting one last good view of Chomolungma/Everest.
-Arrived back in Namche Bazar (3440m). The Kala Pathar Lodge was full (returned "Into The Wild") so we checked into Hotel Namche.
-Had lunch (veggie burger) at Thawa Lodge + Bakery.
-1st shower in 8 days, 1st "real" shower in 12 days.
-Met Derek + Jeff at Bakery. Celebrated/indulged by sharing 4 chocolate treats. Talked about everything from Nepal to OJ to Tyson.
-Mashed potatoes + veg @ Hotel Namche. Spoke to Noelle (Swiss) and Peter (Dutch) from Australia after dinner. They recommend visiting Yemen.

Dingboche to Tengboche

-Lower Altitude = Good night's sleep!
-After Tibetan bread w/peanut butter, hiked up to Bibre alone. Found a great spot to view Lotse (8414m), Peak 38 (7591m), Island Peak (6189m), Amphu Gyabjen (5630m), and the amazing corridor of unnamed mountains, covered in ice, snow, and glaciers. The peak to the East is Kali Himal (7057m). Hiked back down the valley to Peak 38 View Lodge. Climbed a few stone walls to get back there.
-Couldn't find Lakpa; eventually found him drunk, playing cards. We headed for Tengboche over 1 hour late.
-Stopped in Shomare (4010m) for some momos outside.
-Hiked to Pangboche Gompa (3960m) which is a very old monastery.
-Hiked past a massive rock slide, and continued to Tengboche (3860m). Saw Val's guide upon arrival. Saw Val + Derek in the bakery. We went to the 4 PM Buddhist ceremony in the Tengboche Monastery. The monks went back and forth between chanting, playing loud music (w/horns, gongs, + bells) and sipping tea. Lakpa came inside, and we left to check into the Himalayan Lodge.
-We went next door to hang out w/Valerie and her guide. We watched the last few innings of the O's beating the Yankees. I read the last few pages of "Into The Wild" sitting by the fire. It was perfect.
-Headed back to Himalayan Lodge for some Dal Baht. Had a long discussion about Buddhism + Hinduism w/Derek and his porters.

Gorak Shep to Dingboche

-Got a good night's sleep, felt much better. Had veggies + hash browns for breakfast.
-Hiked up Kala Patthar (5600m, 18,368ft). Saw some snow cocks along the way up. Also saw Derek coming down. Made it to the top, with extreme wind. Great view of Chomolungma (Mt. Everest).
-Hiked down; halfway, Lakpa gave me my bag, and he carried an Indian woman up to the top of Kala Patthar on his back!
-Had some pasta for lunch w/Cesar. He was feeling much better.
-Lakpa came back, and we headed off. Passed Lobuche, fighting the wind. Walked by the tombstones of Rob Fisher and Babu Chiri Sherpa. Stopped in Dughla. Passed the "ghost town" of Dusa. Walked past the Buddhist stupa as we arrived in Dingboche (4410m). It was much easier to breathe. Went to the highest internet cafe in the world.
-Stayed at same lodge as Derek. After dinner, listened to a photographer talk about everything from Everest's name to George Mitchell.

Gorak Shep

-Had a terrible night of sleep (altitude). Hiked towards Everest Base Camp very slowly, along w/Lakpa, Val, + her guide. Hiked along the Khumbu Glacier, but the altitude made it tough. Had good views of the summit of Chomolungma/Everest, Nuptse, Lhola, Khumbutse, Lingtren, and Pumo Ri.
-Arrived in Everest Base Camp (5364 m, 17,593 ft). Saw a huge avalanche come down off of Pumo Ri.
-Upon entering the camp, 2 security staff asked if I had any "Free Tibet" flags with me.
-Saw the photo exhibit of the glacier recession in the Khumbu region.
-Walked back slowly to Gorak Shep. Felt the altitude, but forced myself to eat lunch. Wanted to hike up Kala Patthar, but could only go to sleep. Woke up as the sun was setting on Mt. Everest.
-Had boiled potato for dinner, with everyone else who wasn't feeling well (Cesar, Irena, and Sanders).

Dzonglha to Gorak Shep

-Hiked to area w/tombstones in the Khumbu Valley. Had great views of Cholotshe, Ama Dablam, and the sheer face of Kali Himal.
-Hiked to Lobuche (4910m). Had lunch at Ecolodge ($20 rooms). We dedided to continue hiking to Gorak Shep. Crossed over Lobuche Pass (5110m), and could see the Khumbu Ice Fall near Everest Base Camp. Arrived in Gorak Shep (5140m), and met up with Cesar + Valerie at Himalayan Lodge. Great view of Nuptse (7861m). Valerie's guide was playing a traditional Sherpa instrument (like guitar).
-I met Joby from National Geographic's "The Adventurist" We shared some stories of trekking. He was waiting to do his 3rd climb to the summit of Everest.
-Had spaghetti + tomato sauce for dinner. Good to have some familar food.

Dragnag to Dzonglha

-Got up just after 5 AM. Started hike up towards Cho La Pass. It had snowed about 0.5 inches overnight. Hiked up an icy ridge, and could see Cho La Pass across the way. Hiked across a boulder field covered w/snow. We hiked up very steep, loose, and snowy/icy rocks. Very difficult! It felt good to reach the summit of Cho La Pass (5330m)... with many Buddhist prayer flags on top.
-Hiked across a small glacier and started hiking down. Was hiking w/Valerie (Quebec) most of the way.
-Reached Dzonglha (4830m). Checked into expensive tea house, run by a Sherpa who summitted Sagarmatha (Everest) 4 times. (Green Valley View Lodge)
-Ened up sharing a room w/Cesar (Brazil).
-Dal Baht for dinner. Played hearts, war, go fish, and a%*hole w/Irena, Sanders, Jasmine, and 2 Sherpas.

Gokyo to Dragnag

-Woke up at 4 AM to get ready to hike Gokyo Ri (5360m, 17580ft, 51% Oxygen). Sherpa Lakpa w0ke up 30 min late. Had toast w/PB + Jam. Still a bit dark when started hiking. Had 1st view of Mt. Everest/Chomolungma/Sagarmatha (8850m, 29,035 ft). Towards the top, I watched the sun rise directly over Everest. Approaching the top, I had such an amazing view of the mountains, Dudh Pokhari Lake, and the Ngozumpa Glacier (remnants); I shed a tear. I thought about all my wonderful family and friends that I have, which propelled me up to the 17,580 foot summit.
-At the summit, I could see 4 of the 6 highest mountains in the world. #1 Everest, #4 Lhotse (8511m, 27597ft), #5 Makalu (8463m, 27758 ft), #6 Cho Oyu (8201m, 26899ft). Met Justin from LA and Ceasar from Brazil (Holbrook, MA). A bird perched right next to me, and let me take several photos.
-Saw Derek on the way back down, and also the Seattle couple.
-Relaxed at the Namaste Lodge, had some momos; when leaving, the proprietor asked me for my address, and she gave me a hotel flyer and some free biscuits (expired).
-Hiked back along the lakes to the trail to Cho La Pass. Hiked through the Ngozumpa Glacier. Mostly, grey stones, like the moon. There was a large sand dune in the middle of the glacier area. -Arrived in Dragnag (4700m) and checked into the Chola Pass Resort. Met many people, including the girls who I saw jump into the Gokyo Lake earlier in the day. Took a water basin "shower."
The weather was warmer than any other place on the trek so far.
-Nice macaroni w/veggies for dinner. As I brushed my teeth near the yaks, snow was falling.

Machermo to Gokyo

-2 year anniversary of my last day in Biotech! 34 countries in 2 years.
-Toast w/peanut butter + honey for breakfast.
-Hiked to Pangla. Was very tired at start, but got some energy after hiking for a few minutes. Pangla (4480m) was the site of 1995 avalanche (guest house got buried, many people died). Continued hike, and met up w/Derek + porters. Had great view of Cho Oyu. Walked along river to Gokyo Lakes. 2nd Lake was frozen over (Taboche Tsho). Arrived at lakeside town of Gokyo (4790m, 54% Oxygen). Dudh Pokhari Lake only had a little bit of ice, under Gokyo Ri (5360m) and Pharilapche.
-Had some veggie momos, and took a long nap. Woke up, read some of Into The Wild. Bought some muesli and kitkat. Met Hiro + Neu from Osaka, had some mint tea, and watched the sunset behind Gokyo Ri.
-Muchroom, Garlic, Onion + Veg Pizza for dinner. I think it had Yak cheese on it. Listened to some Bob Marley w/Lakpa.
-Brushed teeth while looking at Pharilapche peak; bundled up; went to bed.

Mong La to Machermo

-Woke up w/sun rising over Ama Dablam. 1st view of Taboche Peak (6367m). Had traditional Sherpa porridge (Tsompa) for breakfast.
-Hiked down to Phortse Tenga (2680m), along the Dudh Koshi (River). Stopped at a waterfall near Tenga (3950m). Hiked up to Dole (4200m), stopped while Lakpa had Rakshe. Continued hike up, and took amazing pee along ridge. Had 1st view of Cho Oyu (8201m). Stopped in Luza (4360m) for lunch (chowmen). It started to snow lightly as we headed into Yeti Lodge.
-Talked to Seattle couple about Peace Corps. Had some Tibetan bread and veg + potato for dinner. Talked to Derek from Maine about traveling.
-Brushed teeth under stars + moonlight. Great view of the surrounding mountains. Read more of "Into The Wild" and went to sleep.

Namche Bazar to Mong La

-Porridge + fruit for breakfast. Exchanged the Nietzsche book for Into The Wild.
-Hiked up to Sherwikhangba Center. Saw the Sherpa Culture Museum and Photo Gallery, with artifacts and information about Sherpa life and festivals. Then saw the Everest Documentation Centre, with maps, articles, and photos of all the Sherpas who have summited Everest. Watched a slideshow by Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa.
-Hiked up to the old airport landing strip (Shyangboche), w/great views of Namche. 1st view of Ama Dablam mountain.
-Hiked down to Khumjung (3780m), past the Hillary School to Khumbila Garden Lodge for excellent momos.
-Saw 3 yaks; my sherpa set 1 of them straight.
-Hiked up to Mong La(3975m) to Snowland View Lodge. Fixed Lakpa's sunglasses. Took a very hot shower in an outdoor box, which was very cold. (200 rupees)
-Walked to viewpoint to see Tengboche and the monastery.
-After relaxing, the clouds cleared, and I got a great view of Thamserku, Kangtega, and Ama Dablam.
-Had Dal Bhat w/curry for dinner.
-Talked to English lady about her 2 trips to Sagarmatha NP.

Phakding to Namche Bazar

-Apple pancakes (like chapati) for breakfast. Met Tibor from Millipore + Hungary there.
-Hiked along the Dudh Koshi River to Monjo Monastery, which was closed.
-Paid for entrance permit into Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. Stopped for some momos in Jorsale. Hiked across river and up, passing many zopkios. Arrived in Namche Bazar (3440m) just as the Saturday market was ending. Checked into Kala Patthar Lodge.
-Washed some clothes. Checked email. Had Lapka buy a bag cover for our bags. Water (bottled) has a fixed 100Rs price (only 15Rs in Kathmandu).
-Sterilized some water w/iodine tablets.
-Lakpa brought me to a Sherpa hangout, where they drink rakshe wine, but I had lemon tea. Had a view of Kongde Peak. We played some pool at a bar.
-Had dinner (veg fried noodles) back at the lodge. Read a bit of A Nietzsche Reader.
NB - it's amazing what the Sherpas carry up the mountains - stacks of 2x4's, baskets of rocks or meat or camping gear.
*Skipped acclimatization day - feeling good.

The Trek to Everest Base Camp Begins

-Flight to Lukla in an 18 seat propeller plane. Very short, narrow runway on the mountain My porter, Lakpa Gelu Sherpa, met me at the airport.
-Hiked to Phakding (2,610m). Along the way, saw zopkio (like half cow, half goat). Stayed at International Traveler's Guesthouse.
-Hiked up to Thulo Gumela Monastery, which is about 400 years old. Met Jason from Australia (+Switzerland). Back to tea house for rakshe (millet/rice wine) and a nap.
-Dal Baht Tarkari for dinner in kitchen, near the fire. Afterwards, learned some of the Sherpa language from porters + family there.

My Charity Hike to Mt. Everest Base Camp!

Sponsor my Mt. Everest Trek! I am hiking to Mt. Everest Base Camp for charity. Your donation will go directly to the Sherpa Outdoor Orphan School and Home in Kathmandu, Nepal. This charity provides housing, educational materials and sports equipment to children who have become orphans due to poverty and past political conflicts in Nepal.

Thanks so much!
If you would like a little more info on the orphan home and school, go here: http://www.nepaltravels.com/our_charity.htm

Kathmandu, Nepal - Orphanage Visit

I went to the Himalayan Buddhist Mediation Center for a meditation practice session. The monk spoke about people being too extreme, using examples such as cults and vegetarians!
-Went back to the Indian Embassy, but could not get my visa, yet.

-Met with Raju and Shamsher to get plane tix to Lukla. Shamsher brought me to the bus and then to Sherpa Outdoor Foundation's orphanage. I met all of the kids there. It is a really great place for the kids, as they are learning to read/write and even speak some English. Gave the kids a geography lesson by telling them about my travels with a map. Played some soccer, and then Shamsher brought me to the bus stop. Arrived at Ratna Park and walked by Rani Pokhari Temple + the clock tower to Tibet Holiday Inn.
-Falafel and french fries pita for dinner under OR2K restaurant. Photos burned to DVD, shopped for trek gear, and called home.

Kathmandu, Nepal

Kolkata to Kathmandu

Mizoram to Kolkata

Mizoram, India

Mizoram, India

Mizoram, India

Mizoram, India

Mizoram, India